I’m a Female Sushi Chef. Get Over It - Digest - Los Angeles magazine

I’m a Female Sushi Chef. Get Over It

Niki Nakayama, chef and owner of N/Naka, explains the unexpected idiosyncrasy of being a female sushi chef.

Illustration by Matt Huynh

When I was 21, I enrolled in the Southern California School of Culinary Arts. They place you in an externship at a local establishment, and I was lucky to end up in the kitchen with Takao Izumida at his Brentwood restaurant. He and the other sushi chefs there, Mori and Hiro, were very open-minded. But even there, sushi was definitely a man’s world.

After that I went to Japan to work in a ryokan—like an inn—and learn about kaiseki cuisine. It’s different there. It’s such a patriarchal society, most women don’t even dream of bigger things. There are recent stories of Japanese sushi-chef fathers teaching their daughters the business, but it’s still very rare. I constantly feel fortunate that I grew up in this country.

In 2000, I opened the all-female-run Azami Sushi Cafe on Melrose. In the eight years it was in business, I experienced plenty of discrimination. Japanese men would come, see me, and leave. At the time it bothered me, but I understand now that there is a stereotype of what a sushi chef should look like. We were not it.

That’s why, when I opened n/naka, I thought it would be great if people didn’t see me. All expectations are gone when I’m hidden away in the kitchen. Today n/naka is all women and one man. It’s a coincidence, but I feel lucky. I hope we inspire more Japanese women to reach further. Anything is possible. 3455 S. Overland Ave., Culver City, n-naka.com.


Hidden LA

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  1. Dale Launer posted on 05/22/2013 11:25 PM
    Your restaurant is terrific - and I'm pretty tough. - the food is sophisticated, immaculately prepared, plated and served. Simply delicious.

    Kudos. You're now in the pantheon of great L.A. chefs.

    I'm a bit delighted you're a woman - inspires other women to take that step.
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