Former Angeleno Lauryn Chun’s The Kimchi Cookbook comes out November 27, with recipes for funky fermentations with cabbage, squash, and more. In the meantime, here’s where to taste up some of L.A.’s best.
Kae Sung Market
The most popular variety at this kimchi boutique is mak, which is made with napa cabbage, sweet ginger, briny shrimp, and a kick of fermented chili paste. » 1010 S. St. Andrews Pl., 323-737-6565.
Offsetting the fiery stews here are mellow versions of dong chi mi—radish and cabbage in a clear brine that tastes like the Korean equi-valent of kosher half sours. » 125 N. Western Ave., 323-960-0037.
At this neighborhood stalwart the cabbage in the “special kimchi” develops a subtle carbonation that’s comparable to champagne’s. Think of all those probiotics! » 698 S. Vermont Ave., 213-389-7300.
Myung Dong Kyoja
The noodle shop’s claim to fame is a garlicky kimchi that’s so potent, the rest-rooms are stocked with mouthwash for customers. » 3630 Wilshire Blvd., 213- 385-7789.