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Introducing 'Lou On Wine' with Lou Amdur!

The L.A. wine expert on Le P’tit Blanc du Tue-Bœuf 2010

Menu pineau is a white Loire grape that had its day back when the French drank more wine than water. Poorly served by history and supplanted by sauvignon blanc, it will be banned from classified wines in 2016. But when growers farm it responsibly and vinify with a light touch, the grape can have unexpected charms. Thierry and Jean-Marie Puzelat cultivate the menu pineau planted by their father, blending some into their Le P’tit Blanc. Golden and cloudy, the wine smells honeyed and vaguely citrusy. This dry, chewy relic is the converse of a New Zealand sauvignon blanc—waxy rather than acid soaked.

Food pairing: Anything tangy and sour, such as Night + Market’s sea bass with nam prik noom sauce.

Where to get it: Domaine LA, 6801 Melrose Ave., Hollywood; $16. 

Illustration by Peter Hoey