Photograph courtesy Izakaya Bincho
In 2008, when Tomo Ueno opened Yakitori Bincho, an intimate space on Redondo Beach’s International Boardwalk, he dedicated it almost exclusively to yakitori, chicken skewers grilled over bincho charcoal and sprinkled with sea salt. There were meatballs bursting with schmaltz, slices of heart glazed with tare sauce, and cubes of breast dotted with plum paste and shiso. Connoisseurs flocked to the joint and raved on blogs. But when neighbors complained about the smoke, Ueno had to take yakitori off the menu. Izakaya Bincho, as his place was renamed, survived (in part due to a compelling agedashi tofu). Now, three years and one makeshift ventilation system later, Ueno has renewed his passion. Order a half-dozen skewers and rejoice. » 112 N. International Boardwalk, 310-376-3889.