Illustration by Andy Friedman
Since we’re technically illegal, we keep things mysterious. Also we have over 3,000 on the invitation list—being anonymous helps avoid swamping my personal in-box. Why only 16 diners at a time? Wolvesmouth functions as a social experience as well as a culinary one. Diners interact on a unique level with each other and with chef Craig Thornton. We try to get as many new applicants as we can, but it helps to have at least one alumnus there to explain the process. How does the pay-what-you-want system work? Some people are extremely generous, and some pay way below our costs, but most fall within a fair range. The focus is on creating a social dynamic around food, not about profit.