Commonwealth

[Burbank]

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The “global small plates” field is a crowded one, but this is Burbank’s first real taste of today’s dominant restaurant trend. Co-owners and high school buds Ryotaro Isobe and Peter Park have divided the offerings at their funky bistro by four: raw, sea, land, and veggies. Shrimp dumplings with goat cheese are a successful cross between ravioli and the springy dim sum staple har gow. Fried chicken is done up crispy karaage style; hits of cumin and Dijon keep the bird from seeming like Japanese fast food. Order a slice of Mama’s Cake—a moist loaf made with house-fermented cherries, pineapple, and walnuts—to have for breakfast the next day. » 222 S. Glen-oaks Blvd., 818-845-2225.

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