Because Kogi Won’t Come to Your House

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This month brings The Truck Food Cookbook, by John T. Edge (Workman Publishing), and L.A. favorites are well represented. Edge spent many mornings in a lot under the 10 freeway, watching the day’s preparations unfold. “Vendors were loading workingmen’s trucks with coils of chorizo,” he says, while a fleet of Kogi trucks would line up “the way Rolls-Royces used to do at Ma Maison.” 

 

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