Best Fancy Burger, August 2011
At West Hollywood's Comme Ça, an 80/20 Angus patty, shredded cabbage, medium-sharp cheddar, onion, and Thousand Island-esque dressing come on a brioche bun. The puck of meat arrives medium rare, and the bun just—and we mean just—holds up to the juices. commecarestaurant.com.
David Myers, who is also the owner of Costa Mesa's Pizzeria Ortica, explores traditional brasserie food here with his characteristic eye for detail. The goat cheese is rolled in pistachios, giving a pert beetroot salad a sprightly touch; marrowbones are accompanied by a lusty oxtail jam. With white banquettes and a heat-seeking crowd nibbling on moules frites and gourmet burgers, the mood can be giddy and the ambience loud, but the food carries weight.