This Tuscan-modern place--with two-story ceilings and an enclosed rear courtyard--seems an appropriate fit for the chichi Melrose Place strip. Olive oil is the unifying force here. Far-flung varieties are sold out front in bottles, whipped into mashed potatoes, and drizzled tableside over sea bass en papillote. The array of carpaccio, crudo, and crostini is as fresh as it is inventive, but that momentum slows with the main courses. Penne with wild mushrooms seems thrown together.