In a repurposed I-Hop with knotty-pine walls, Kogi's Roy Choi channels "the feeling I used to get cracking crabs on the Redondo Beach Pier," he says on the menu. The dusting of kaffir lime-laced salt shifts the peel-and-eat shrimp from hearty to refined. Kettle corn is draped with butter, powdered with sugar, and propelled by seaweed's marine kick. Dishes like Choi's pound cake version of churros are in keeping with an atmosphere that's fun and slightly over the top.