You spot the pastry case first, with its pitch-black chocolate cookies, glistening muffins wrapped in paper, and softball-size meringues that look frozen in time. Chef Jeff Cerciello opened the original Ad Hoc and Bouchon for Thomas Keller, and his grasp of casual yet sensual dining persists in this shabby-chic (emphasis on the latter) café, bakery, and market venture at the Brentwood Country Mart. The name comes from the original 1948 store (Farm House) that occupied the space, but it's also a theme. Dungeness crabmeat sits amid halved sunchokes and butter lettuce leaves dressed with a light citrus vinaigrette. Fried artichokes are plated simply with slices of winter squash, a sprinkling of pumpkin seeds, and a few lumps of burrata. It's a kind of unadulterated cooking that Angelenos are familiar with, but we're still amazed when it soars. Sandwiches are bolstered by custom rye and wheat breads from Tavern and house-made brioche. Breakfast and weekend brunch are forums for farm-fresh eggs, served deviled with smoked trout or sunny side up with pastrami. At the Brentwood Country Mart, Thomas Keller Group alum Jeffrey Cerciello continues to use his restaurant's name as inspiration, highlighting local produce and tip-top proteins in dishes that touch all shores of the Mediterranean. The menu changes, but you can count on roasted chicken, which takes poultry to another dimension. As at breakfast, the pastries are irresistible.