Scott Conant does high renditions of simple Italian fare without ruining the food's inherent poetry. Spaghetti with tomato sauce is lent an austere beauty. Polenta is served peasant style in a bowl, but a cuff-linked waiter spooning wild mushrooms onto it transports the dish from country to city. The food--down to the moist olive oil cake--feels so personal, you'd hardly know there were Scarpettas in Miami, Toronto, New York, and Vegas as well.