The crowds at this high-ticket Mexican restaurant are for Rick Bayless, Top Chef Master and founder of Chicago's Frontera Grill. Despite the high-priced touches (hanging leather seats at the bar, massive voile drapes) and abundant staff, it's easy to feel as if you're on an assembly line. When he's on target, Bayless shows a flair for compressing a dish's heft without losing its essence. The sauce of the tinga poblana--braised pork shoulder--radiates with chipotle. Pastry chef Nika Yazdani's desserts incorporate street vendor elements.