A sprawling corner patio beckons off Beverly Boulevard long before you catch the scent of the wood fire. The imported Italian oven is put to good use, charring spring artichokes, browning the edges of grass-fed steak au poivre, and crisping the crusts of the Tuscan café’s many pizzas. This is a charming everyday spot locked in competition with Terroni up the street. Della Terra is slightly more grown-up than its trendier neighbor but lacks its verve. A bottle of Barbera and a seat on the patio make for a leisurely weeknight date.