Wolfgang Puck's restaurant is not glitch free. Yet there is something thrilling about looking down on a knot of freeways from a dining room situated 24 stories above downtown's L.A. Live. Here, big-ticket Chinese food is the order of the day. The hint of sweetness in a chilled Bert Simon spatlese plays off the black vinegar and chili oil draping the pork belly dumplings. The sea bass--tender and pearly white after being baked whole in a salt crust--has a subtle power. The crispy Peking duck is as authentic as it comes.