Piero Selvaggio's Santa Monica landmark has brought in Sardinian-born chef Nico Chessa to try his hand at the legacy. A butter lettuce salad is magnificent: a stack of crisp leaves lovingly dressed with a Taleggio dressing and a sprinkle of hazelnuts. The artisanal gli spaghetti, however, lacks the kick one would expect from the advertised pecorino and spicy oil. Branzino cooked in parchment is a delicate wonder.