With its two bars, indoor dining room, patio, and cigar lounge all cleverly divided, Wilshire doesn't feel as big as it is. A mixed lettuce salad might have persimmons, feta, and hazelnuts; lobster and braised sweetbreads elevate a tagliatelle appetizer. Deft treatments, such as the horseradish and parsley gremolata on a salmon fillet, show supreme confidence.