Tony DiSalvo, whose pedigree includes stints at New York's three-star Jean Jorge, has taken over the kitchen at Santa Monica's Viceroy Hotel. It's hard to see his résumé in the run-of-the-mill-sounding menu items; it's in their preparation that we sense his chops. Jidori chicken is ubiquitous these days (aren't we lucky), but this one is supernaturally moist, encrusted in a crispy Parmesan shell with a poached egg, black truffles, and chanterelles. We only wished we had more of the spicy harissa oil with our slow-cooked arctic char. Rich sweet corn ravioli with lobster was barely tarnished by a few undercooked shallots. Unfortunately, this subtle, refined food doesn't stand a chance against the dramatic (and divisive) Kelly Wearstler design.