Civilized and refined, Josie exists outside trends. Its two dining rooms, hung with framed botanical prints, invite conversation without being hushed. Chef Josie Le Balch is as comfortable using a copper sauteuse as she is working the wood-burning grill. She can do frog legs amandine and not make it seem like an ironic statement. Dishes such as the skewered seppia with lentils and the tagine of beef short ribs go out along the razor's edge of inspiration. Jonna Jensen's desserts—the hazelnut-pear frangipane is stellar—match Le Balch's meticulous style.