This is a bar, emphasis on beer, and entrance age is 21. Chef-owner Sang Yoon makes primo tapas: imported jamón serrano, spicy olives, and house-cured white anchovies. He’s also got one of L.A.’s best burgers, made with Gruyère and Maytag blue and served on a perfectly toasted arugula-stuffed bun. Order at the bar.
Best Beer Sommelier, August 2008
Los Angeles’s main contribution to beer culture is Father’s Office
, the gastropub where Foret Saison de Silly is paired with grilled asparagus like diet cola with a cheeseburger. But our cocktail-prone city has only one true suds sommelier. Self-described “beer chick” Christina Perozzi, who honed her palate at the original Father’s Office in Santa Monica, now rules the craft-beer roost at the Rustic Canyon Wine Bar and Seasonal Kitchen
. Like the dinner menu, her bottle collection rotates monthly, and tableside doting is the norm. One minute she shows why Kulmbacher Eisbock rocks with bloomy rind sheep’s milk cheese; the next, how the rare farmhouse brew Saison D’Erpe Mere draws out the citrus in a snapper ceviche. She even pioneered the beer cocktail with a ginger-lemongrass syrup that diners drizzle into a glass of Girardin Geuze. Welcome to Christina’s office.
Best Gastropub, March 2007
Many a brewery boasts decent fries, and most restaurants can whip up a cocktail for that filet mignon. But a true gastropub is a place where edibles and potables share supremacy. A prime example of this is Father’s Office. Order one of the 36 brews on tap at this busy Westsider, and then go basic with the prizewinning Office Burger (shamelessly duplicated, never equaled) and a mini shopping cart of sweet potato frites. Feeling upmarket? Try one of the daily specials: smoked eel with a poached egg and crème fraîche, say, or a dandy loup de mer.