More than a decade later, the quaint Italian spot on Ocean Avenue (but sans an ocean view) is still packed, thanks to the consistency of chef-owner Bruce Marder. A list of specials makes up the front page of the menu -- when the season warrants, truffles, they're shaved atop everything; when it's time for spot prawns, they come sauteed. The signature white corn ravioli is ever present, for which we're thankful. A wood-fire grill puts the finishing char on a rack of lamb and a bevy of steaks. The large menu is accommodating (if bank breaking), the service remains delightful, and the wine list is among the best on the beach.