This minimalist spot mocks the stereotype of Angelenos as health-obsessed weenies unable to take pleasure in robust food. Gino Angelini, a native of Italy, embraces the honesty of the Italian table with his deceptively simple cooking. His sensibility for the sea is apparent in the breaded and broiled scallops, but he makes fine veal kidneys, too. Nothing here, however, moves as fast as the green lasagna.