Eva Longoria and Todd English’s huge space is swanky in a New Hollywood way. The U-shaped marble bar (outstanding cocktails) and lounge pave the way to a dining room where, considering the pop wattage of the owners, a relatively staid crowd dines under chandeliers dripping from 60-foot bow-truss ceilings. The steak house menu has been spiced up with such Latin elements as guacamole (avocado or artichoke), Longoria’s tortilla soup, a taco bar, and a ceviche selection. The crispy lamb ribs might—should—kick-start a backlash to the ubiquitous spareribs riddling local menus, and a bone-in rib eye and a whole roasted fish are reminders of the simple alchemy of fire and food. Our sympathies to the hostesses, whose torturously high heels are part of the uniform.
Best Churros Nuevos, August, 2008
We start salivating like a pup at the mere thought of them. The Spanish doughnut, shaped like a hot dog and sprinkled with sugar, is reputedly the invention of shepherds. Men played around with breadmaking as their flocks of Churra sheep mowed the meadows. The confections came to be called churros. Crispy outside, cakelike inside, they’re usually served solo or with a pot of chocolate sauce. But at Beso
, pastry chef Jessica Mosardo turns them into an extravaganza. Her piping hot churros come with dulce de leche (made the traditional way, with goat’s milk) and spicy Mexican chocolate sauces, two ice cream sandwiches filled with house-made ice creams (vanilla, Nutella, roasted pear, passion fruit, pistachio), and a mini chipwich.