Chef-ownder Jimmy Shaw is broadening the definition of a Mexican restaurant. Most dishes highlight the contrast of patient simmering and fresh salsas. The stewed chicken in the tinga de pollo, the tender carne deshebrada, the slow-cooked pork in the cochinita pibil all have a lush, saturated quality. There are a few details that need work (the flan is lackluster), but this place fits right in with our all-time-favorite Mexican spots.