Casey Lane's inspired, ingredient-driven menu--hand scribbled on a single sheet--changes each day, and it's attracting a titillated crew of regulars. A base of farro will support hunks of spicy sausage one night, walnuts and winter squash on another. A bowl of fresh taglionlini might star fresh cockles or pork and persimmons. Cocktails (the Aficionado mixes tequila, cynar, and port) are just as daring.