The gourmet burger has always struck us as a contradiction in terms. But Umami, the brainchild of Adam Fleischman (BottleRock, Vinoteque), has us questioning our assumptions. Every ingredient is calibrated, like the caramelized onions and blue cheese of the Port & Stilton Burger. The SoCal Burger is a near-genius reconception of the California classic—oven-dried tomato spread subs for Thousand Island dressing, and even the processed cheese is homemade (OK, maybe that is a contradiction in terms).