Chef Eric Greenspan's holds his festive establishment—part restaurant, part social hall, and on weekends, part jazz club—together with centrifugal force. The patio features an olive tree and a glass-fronted fireplace, and the menu pings around new-American bistro cooking: soft-shell crab, sweetbreads, rabbit potpie, pork belly. The atmosphere is buoyant, the kitchen uncompromising. A salad of radishes with tangerines has a springlike zest; crispy skate is gilded with saffron. The poached chicken with morel mushrooms and white corn can upstage the music.