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The Gorbals

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501 S. Spring St. Los Angeles, CA 90013 213-488-3408
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The name refers to a poor Jewish neighborhood in Glasgow, and it's not the only puzzling thing about Top Chef winner Ilan Hall's first L.A. restaurant. The space is set deep inside downtown's barely renovated (read: still sketchy) Alexandria Hotel. To say the room is stark doesn't begin to describe all the right angles and concrete. Dishes are a mix of traditional Jewish, Scottish, and Middle Eastern cuisines—really. The staff is even more confused than the diners. None of this head scratching matters, however, if the food works, and most of it does. Welsh rarebit with fried egg is beyond luscious. Haggis meatballs are bright bullets of flavor in a rich soup. Scooping marrow from the bone onto meaty oyster mushrooms is a carnal experience. Whatever your feelings about bacon-wrapped matzo balls, this isn't just a gimmick.
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American
Hours
L Mon.-Fri. 11:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m.; D Mon.-Wed. 6:00 p.m.-12:00 a.m., Thu.-Sat. 6:00 p.m.-2:00 a.m.; Brunch Sun. 10:00 a.m.-3:00 p.m.
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