In a town where Botox or bulldozers claim most everything over 20, the 80th anniversary of Taix is a triumph. So one can forgive the dated upholstery and rainbow sherbet and focus on delicious steamed mussels, piping hot frites, and a bordelaise roasted chicken that falls off the bone. Classics like escargots, rabbit, and salade niçoise feel quaint in the banquet-size rooms, but the Bordeaux-heavy wine list is a treasure.