The current incarnation of Joachim Splichal's 25-year-old flagship, burrowed in a corner of Walt Disney Concert Hall, is under the watch of chef Charles Olalia. Formerly of the French Laundry, he goes for nuance with a French take on California seasonality. A whisper of lemon thyme is all that's needed to transform a John Dory fillet. A sprinkle of chicory streusel and a few carrot curls dress an elemental salad of Windrose Farm greens. Wine drinking is a sport here, and Silvestre Fernandes is its coach.