If there's any place left in L.A. that plays by the rules of the all-frills grande maison restaurant experience, it is Joachim Splichal's Patina. Food runners, captains in dark suits, sommeliers, and cheese experts gracefully execute their duties around a chef whose name changes every few years. Moved to Disney Hall in 2003, Patina is classic in its reverence for stocks and butter, smart enough to incorporate Mediterranean influences, and a refreshing departure from the small plates and pig parts that dominate the restaurant scene.