A sleek remodel has added a casual wine bar to this Melrose favorite. The menu skews seasonal. Sweet corn agnolotti could pass for dessert if it were't for all that luscious brown butter, and the seafood sauce on squid ink tagliatelle is emboldened by sea urchin roe. Pizzas are of the thin and bubbly variety. The desserts, such as tiramisu, panna cotta, and baked custard, don't taste like those of a refined pastry chef but of a nonna.