A food counter tucked in the Mercado La Paloma, Mo-Chica is Ricardo Zarate's first restaurant. A longtime sushi chef, he deploys the clarity of the Japanese aesthetic to capture the simmered soulfulness of traditional Peruvian food. His quinoa preparations are stellar, and the sauteed beef, which he stokes with a fiery sauce, is remarkable for its ability to be hearty while keeping the flavors distinct. Still, nothing on the menu can match the ceviche.