Everything at this old-school "occasion" restaurant, which is housed in a historic lodge, is imposing: The wine is big, the menu is heavy on game, and the heads of horned beasts adorn the walls. In this Hemingwayesque scene, the meat—New Zealand elk, venison saddle, squab, Berkshire pork—is cooked with a precision that verges on daintiness. Service has a mix of personality and smarts.