It put us on the map 30 years ago, and its alumni have helmed the stoves of just about every great L.A. restaurant. What keeps Spago alive is the food. The quality may waver depending on whom you know (or who knows you), but on its best days Wolfgang Puck's clubhouse is magnificent. The risotto with sweet shrimp is made sweeter when tossed with Santa Barbara sea urchin. A veal chop takes over the dinner table conversation. If the menu items sound familiar, it's because they inspire fads worldwide.