Restaurant Finder - Los Angeles magazine - Oliverio
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Oliverio

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9400 W. Olympic Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90212 310-277-5221
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There's something essentially L.A. about dining beside a glowing kidney-shaped pool. The latest restaurant to occupy the midcentury-inspired Avalon Hotel has the same glamorous setting with a new culinary focus, courtesy of Italian heavyweight Mirko Paderno (Valentino, All'Angelo). Starters are stunning: A cauliflower soufflé is textbook fluffy and a terrine of potato, smoked bacon, and horseradish as satisfying as it is beautiful (we just wish it had been warmer). Mains could use a little more work: Sticky orecchiette with clams is overtaken by the pesto, and a dinner plate-size veal chop with potatoes is rustic but lacks finesse. What we nearly fell into the pool over? A sweet polenta cake with tart lemon curd—yum.
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Price
Categories
Italian
Hours
B Mon.-Fri. 7:00 a.m.-11:00 a.m.; L Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; D Sun.-Thu. 6:00 p.m.-10:00 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 6:00 p.m.-10:30 p.m.; Brunch Sat.-Sun. 11:00 a.m.-4:00 p.m.