Mastro's may be a chain, but there's a lot to be said for prime ingredients, a friendly staff, and consistency. Everything about this place screams excess: martini shakers on the tables, shopping bags of leftovers by diners' chairs. Anywhere else, the iceberg "wedge"—more like a whole head—would be a meal. New York steaks, bone-in rib eyes, and veal chops are served on 400-degree plates, and the shrimp cocktail is nearly obscured by its base of dry ice. Having room for dessert suggests there's something wrong with you.