The Burns family has a long history in the L.A. restaurant scene, dating back to 1918 with the Robert Burns Pharmacy and soda fountain in Beverly Hills. The clan's latest is this simple American bistro. The look is promising: Ethan Allen chic with deep blue bookcases and designer walnut armchairs. The menu, though, is just too big. Who has five soups? (Even so, the creamy wild mushroom is the pinnacle of funghi flavor.) There's pizza and charcuterie, too, which are in vogue but require extra finesse. More successful are rustic entrées such as roasted trout and wine-braised lamb shank, which taste as if there's an exceptional home cook in the kitchen. With some whittling of the menu, this spot could stick.