Before opening as Bestia, this arts district looker was home to the Test Kitchen pop-up series, where host Ori Menashe, formerly of Angelini Osteria, welcomed chefs from across the city. Now it's his turn to be in charge. House-made charcuterie is a focal point, and the assorted plate—headlined by the superb coppa di testa—is mandatory. Pizzas are beyond fine, but they distract from transcendent pastas like the ricotta cavatelli with pork sausage, a dish that singlehandedly re-deems the use of black truffles. Menashe's wife, Genevieve Gergis, crafts such inspired desserts as chestnut-flour doughnuts with coffee gelato. Leave the beverage selection to rising-star wine steward Maxwell Leer.