The ocean breeze that wafts along Rose Avenue keeps Superba's patio cool, with a stockpile of thick blankets ensuring that nobody catches cold. Take comfort in brawny house-made pastas, such as squid ink chitarra (spaghetti's square-cut cousin) tossed with chorizo and mussels, or his lyrical vegetable dishes, like the wonderfully charred cauliflower “T-bone” drizzled with a rough puree of olives and fresh herbs.
The Top Ten Best New Restaurants: No. 6, January 2013
Given to wearing newsboy caps and the sort of work shirts preferred by short order cooks, Jason Neroni grew up skateboarding in Orange County before toiling in Alain Ducasse's boot camp. Now helming a light-filled corner of Venice's Rose Avenue, he's a chef with a style that's at once easygoing and uncompromising. A tender cauliflower wedge heaped with a gremolata of basil, orange peel, and olives might lead to a big scoop of the city's definitive chicken liver mousse. Most extraordinary of all, though, are the pastas. The flavors of the wakame spaghettini, twirled into a nest and draped with uni lobes, have an oceanic depth. With the smoked bucatini carbonara, the bite of durum is the only contrast needed to unite the pancetta, black pepper, and egg yolk that cling to the tubes. Unless you can add