Another score for the beach cities. The former Union Cattle Company has been transformed into this smart small-plates operation and brewery, with a Stone Brewing Company alum in charge of the suds. The look is stereotypical brewpub: big bar, copper vats, lots of wood. The meaty menu reads like a New American cuisine hit list. While dishes such as pork rillettes and roasted bone marrow have become de rigueur in L.A., they remain a rarity this close to the Hermosa pier. What's more novel? Soft serve for dessert.