Tom Colicchio's L.A. spin-off of his Craft franchise has taken shape. Ordering is the trick; the vast menu, arranged by food category and cooking technique, is served in family-style portions. The kitchen does an extraordinary job with roasted organic chicken and Alaskan black cod, and where else will you see a 42-day dry-aged porterhouse? Desserts are the bee's knees. The more casual Craftbar out front serves an innovative menu of small plates.