Consulting chef Jeremy Fox made waves in Napa with his vegetarian cooking at Ubuntu. Here, with executive chef Charlie Parker, sprouts have been abandoned for rabbit mortadella and flash-grilled steak tartare. Reuben's Gluttony features corned beef brisket and bone marrow. More graceful are vegetable-based dishes like a mushroom and farro porridge in a caramelized onion consomme.
Best Brussels Sprouts, August 2013
Long maligned, brussels sprouts have been getting a lot of love lately. It's the version at the Westside's rockin' Freddy Smalls (bring your earplugs) that really tests our manners: We don't want to share a single bud. Chef Charlie Parker fries halved sprouts to this side of hell and finishes them with a tart and sweet apple cider glaze. A mess of the caramelized beauties are piled into an earthenware bowl, where a luscious dollop of house-smoked goat cheese awaits at the bottom. Drag one of the orphan leaves—as crunchy as a Lay's potato chip—through the soft schmear for a blessed union of cream and crunch, smoke and sweet. Brussels sprouts, thou art redeemed.