Best Butcher, August 2011
What makes McCall's Meat & Fish Co.
in Los Feliz “prime” is that, without a trace of piety, owners Nathan McCall and Karen Yoo help us ponder the ethical questions about eating meat even as they celebrate it. The display case is more than the point of sale for an endlessly replenished supply. Steaks are not stacked one upon the other, and the shop runs out of chickens because the lady who raises them makes deliveries only two days a week. Cuts are laid out with a curator's care, whether it's a rack of Colorado lamb they carve on-site into chops or lobes of veal sweetbreads ready to be blanched at home.