Best Wine Bar Food, August 2009
When an honest place offering simple food at reasonable prices opens in a seedy strip mall, everyone joins in the sense of discovery. Lou Amdur's tiny restaurant is often packed, serving up slow food (the cooking style, not the delivery) like Pig Candy—bacon cured with brown sugar and spiked with pepper—and a nightly entrée that might be braised pork shoulder or coq au vin. The menu's small and includes frisée salads, cheese and salami “planks,” and more than two dozen small-batch wines by the glass. Fruit crumble for dessert.