On the one hand, this is a chophouse, and Suzanne Tracht's pot roast and Brobdingnagian one-in pork loin are duly heralded. The small dishes, however, are what elevate Jar: deviled eggs crowned with chunks of crabmeat; tender calamari salad with a citrusy dressing set off by a chiffonade of mint. The room may be the most handsome--and comfortable--in the city. Sunday brunch is outstanding, from the sticky buns to the pot roast hash.