Best Fried Chicken, August 2008
The breasts and thighs on display resemble golden shards knocked loose from some mother lode of fried chicken at its most absolute. They’re served old style—beneath yellow parchment paper in cardboard boxes—along with biscuits and fries or corn on the cob. But the fried coating is what sets this place apart. It’s hard, chewy, sweet, and salty, like something your grandma once enjoyed at a state fair, and about as cheap.