Best Champagne Selection, August 2007
You can buy your Veuve at Cost Plus and your Dom at Gelson’s, but if you have the guts to go beyond the obvious—and you’re not embarrassed about spending less for better quality— Wine Expo is the place for bubbly. It doesn’t stock the splashy commercial bottles, only—as general manager Roberto Rogness puts it—premium “farmer’s fizz.” That means 200 labels of artisanal champagne from 85 grower-producers are in the house, along with dozens of effervescent cousins—proseccos, cremant de Bourgognes, and sparkling reds. Rogness, a font of opinion, has tasted them all. Don’t get him started on the marketing of champagne as a luxury item: “It’s wine, dammit!” as one of the shop’s placards pro-claims.