Cook’s Tortas

Overshadowed by the holy trinity of tacos, burritos, and quesadilla, the torta has long been the stepchild of street-corner Mexican fare, a mere sandwich—too bready, too mayonnaise-y to gain a large following. At this unlikely pan-Latin sandwich shop, the torta is treated to a gourmet makeover: From the slow-roasted pork and Spanish cod to the wood-fired rolls and daily aguas frescas, everything is fresh and homemade.