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The only things we miss from this Moroccan haven’s previous life as Dar Maghreb are the belly dancers (even then, only a little). Everything else—the tile-mosaic interior (cleaned up), the cocktails (gone crafty), the menu (by Octavio Becerra of the late Palate Food + Wine)—has benefited from a recent reimagining. Global dishes bounce from continent to continent and include halibut ceviche, Provençal lamb dumplings in a rich broth, Chinese steamed buns with duck confit, and bacon-and-aged-cheddar-infused corn bread straight from the American South. The result can make for a puzzling meal—albeit a delicious one.