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Situated in a former IHOP, Roy Choi’s A-Frame is the street food king’s manifesto for the sit-down-restaurant world that declares plates should be passed, hands should get dirty, and meals should feel like carnivals. A bowl of soothing green curry clam chowder, sticky hoisin-glazed pork ribs, and kettle corn speckled with seaweed demonstrate what you already know—that Choi’s lush, unshackled cooking thrums with the pulse of L.A.